Slowboating to Laos...a more social experience.

Sabaidee. Like the Thai hello...but different.

Its been a while since Chiang Mai...yet it feels like so much longer. Partly because the journey to Luang Prabang took us over 2 days in total, a very long, hot and sweaty two days...but it was worth it.

Putting the afternoon of travel away from our precious Chiang Mai aside, our journey also involved the "popular" 2 day journey down the Mekong river. Now, when I say popular, I mean it in the sense that it is the means of transport most "often used" rather than most favourable.  These slow boats leave the Huay Xai port in Laos once a day, and include a cramped and stuffy 6 hour trip down the river to a tiny village named Pak Beng (our less than comfortable comfort stop) followed by an 8 hour trip the next day to Luang Prabang.

It sounds frightening, and we've heard some horror stories along the way. However, I actually look upon our journey with a strange kind of fondness. Despite being a poor car traveller, I do enjoy boat trips, and at least we were going down a river that was surrounded by towering jagged hilltops, lush forests and sporadically placed hut villages. Stick your ipod in and you've got some great "thinking time". Plus, these journeys from hell can actually prove to be a great place for some socialising...as we soon found!

Just some of the beautiful views along the Mekong river...

On the first day we sat with a group of people from the UK and one from Canada. Four Irishmen, one Scot, one English girl and a Welsh girl. They'd only just met on the bus from Pai, but they seemed pretty friendly. After persuading the worried Laos boatman not to pull the canopy over the only bit of open roof on the boat (he took one look at my porcelain white skin in the sun and freaked out), we got talking to the two young girls. Emily was from Swansea and turned out to know the only person I knew from there and instantly we hit it off. Small world syndrome hits again. 

We filled them all in on the news from home, as they'd been away since September in Australia. Naturally they were keen to hear all about the Royal Wedding preparations...oh, and that Blue were reforming for Eurovision. Naturally. 

Once we got to our stop at the tiny village of Pak Beng, we went our separate ways, to our equally rubbish hostels. Poor Pak Beng, so desperate for trade from the daily passers through, they ripped us off at every opportunity. Our hotel's shower was more like a hose, and the building security didn't leave us feeling comfortable.

We headed into the main part of the tiny town for dinner. We had a lovely meal, with traditional Laos sticky rice and a chicken and sweet potato curry. An even bigger bonus was our complimentary first taste of Laos whiskey (note to self: never trust something that is always given out for free). 

We then headed to Hive bar "the only and best bar in town", where the whole boat load of Westerners flocked for a much deserved Beerlao. Here, we bumped into our boat friends again, and hit it off in a far more sociable manner. "Finally...we have friends!" I thought. Not that I was tired of Annabel yet, but we were starting to get worried. 

And the next day was easier. Despite being furious at my tuna baguette that only had flakes of tuna on the edges (so as to appear full), it was an easier journey than we expected. More beautiful scenery and ipod time. Of course, along with any cheap foreign public transport comes the usual oddities and strange experiences, but all in all it wasn't a bad journey.

At our destination of Luang Prabang, we checked into a recommended hostel "SpicyLao" and went for dinner with our new found chums. 

We definately feel more in the swing of things by now, and we've checked into our first dorm. Ah, the joys of bunk-beds. Laos is going to be a lot of fun...

"Today is better than two tomorrows..."

Buddhist Mantras...

I'm sitting in a "high speed" internet cafe in off the Ratchadamnoen Road in Chiang Mai, Northern Thailand, and basking in the luxury of air conditioning. It's been almost a week since I left the comforts of normality back in Surrey, and I'm not sure where all the time has gone! The past six days have flashed by us so quickly, that its hard to think which day we did what. Yet everything is still so fresh and vivid in our minds.

Our first experience of Thailand can best be described as overwhelming. We were dropped off, tired and sweaty, slap bang in the middle of the Khaosan Road: the center of the backpacking universe. It was intense. The road was just as I had seen in all the photos...neon lights paving the way down the crowded street buzzing with people, music and smells that I can't really describe. As two very white girls weighed down with huge backpacks, we radiated a "newbie" look. Suddenly we felt like the main target for all the touts and tuk tuk drivers. Thankfully we had a destination : Rikka Inn. We pushed our way through the hustle and bustle and found our lovely hotel: not quite to our budget but it felt like a safe house from all the chaos outside.

We rested on the first night, ready to make the most of the next day. Bangkok is an intense city, with crowded side streets and non stop streams of traffic on the main roads. Crossing at a level crossing is near impossible at times, and everywhere you walk, you are bombarded with "Tuk tuk?" or by the numerous taxi drivers waiting at the corners. For a capital city, we found that there wasn't much that we were desperate to see. Khaosan was most definitely the main experience imprinted on my memory now, but we set out for our first taste of the Thai Temple trail.

The Grand Palace...

             

The Grand Palace or Wat Phra Keao is the center of Bangkok's royal and spiritual connection. As my first taste of Asian architecture, I was wowed by the elaborate decor of the colourful and bejewelled palace and temples. Decked out with golden Buddhas in all sizes and positions, I went picture crazy.

Thai Decor...

We had to be completely covered up, and dressed respectfully. Annabel was turned away for wearing her leggings, despite only wearing them to cover up. They were very strict. So we sweated buckets in the blazing hot sun, listening to the orange-clad monks chanting praises in the central temple. The famour Emerald Buddha was closed to tourists, due to some sort of festival that we were ignorantly unaware of. It seemed that we may have arrived during a bad time for tourism, as it fell on a national day of worship: Makha Bucha Day. This also meant that there was a national ban on the selling of alcohol. We were a little disappointed to hear this, as we'd been so well behaved the night before, that we fancied a few drinks that evening.

Well, as it turned out, Thai laws don't really apply to Khaosan Road! After about 8pm, the streets were filled with Westerners swigging Changs, Singhas, and buckets to the sound of blaring Thai pop and western floor fillers.

As for us? Well, when in Rome...

In the thick of Khao San...

We did a classic bar crawl down the road with our Changs, fending off the charming men offering us sex shows with the infamous ping pong girls (with a delightful "pop" noise). Curiosity was killing us, wanting to see one of these shows, but we thought it best not to jump in a suspicious looking tuk tuk at this stage in our trip. A trip for the future methinks...

My first 'bucket'...

It was a great night. We chatted to friendly travellers, giving us tips on the must-sees of Thailand. After these chats, we were set on Chiang Mai as our next destination. So booked a 12 hour train journey the next day. And waking up in Bangkok with a hangover was not an experience we wanted to repeat...

Whilst Bangkok is a buzzing and exciting city, we felt that three days was quite enough to start out with. It didn't exactly rest my mind at the thought of five whole months away. Sleeping was difficult in the first few nights (bar the alcohol fuelled occasion) as my mind was racing with my fears and worries of being alone out in the wild, so to speak. Annabel had to comfort me with the knowledge that of course I would feel that way after the first two nights: its all still so new. It's one big learning curve.

Our next destination was Chiang Mai. Beautiful and spiritual Chiang Mai. A city of enlightenment and spirituality, a calming contrast to Bangkok. Instead of having streets lined and ruled by touts and western bars, Chiang Mai is dominated by the many temples. We instantly relaxed, wandering the streets during the day quenching our thirst for spirituality in the many glorious temples, and feeding our shopping habits by wandering along the Sunday Walking Street markets and the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar. The fairy light lit markets surrounded us with delicious spicy smells, and stared longingly at all the hand crafted jewelry and fabrics. If only we didn't have to carry every purchase on our back for five months...we would have been filling our bags and emptying our purses!

Chiang Mai Night Market...

I treated myself to some deliciously colorful sushi for only 30 baht (around 60p) and we had our sore feet pampered by a thai foot massage on the side of the street. This is the life!

Thai Sushi...

We finally felt a little more settled in our trip, and could easily have stayed longer. It was easy to understand how Chiang Mai in particular is such a popular destination for Western ex pats to pack up and move too. Especially the older men...but I won't even start on the subject of Thai brides...or even Thai "girlfriends".

So next it was time to get a little bit touristy. We booked a day trek...or day adventure as Chiang Mai is a big stop on the trekker trail. My friends had recommended a two or three day trek, but with our time being short, we opted for the one day option.

Thai countryside...

This was a day trip where a group of about ten of us bundled into a pickup truck and set off for a day packed full of elephant riding, a trip to the long-neck culture village, a short trek to a waterfall and white water rafting. Our group was internationally diverse, with Japanese, American, Dutch and Norwegian travellers. Out of them we made a friend out of a young Dutch girl Valerie and were given life tips by two quirky American housewives Patty and Susie, who lived to travel but were restrained by the ties of career and family.

The elephant riding was the highlight! Such magnificent creatures, and so docile. It wasn't the most ethically friendly, as they were in chains for the walk, but they seemed to have a pleasant life. Annabel and I were so excited! We named our cheeky elephant Olly, and he was one of the younger more spirited elephants who insisted on splashing us in the river and overtaking the slower older elephants in front. It wasn't the most comfortable ride, but we were caught in wonder at the experience. There rest of the day was fun, but not all the notable in relation to our lovely elephants.

Elephant riding and bathing...

For now we are departing from Thailand and making our way to Laos. Of course, this is not goodbye...this is just farewell, as we will be returning in the south to explore Thailand's beaches. But for now, Thailand, its been eventful...

The Journey Begins...

It's only 7 hours until I take off from the UK and embark on my mighty journey. I'm all packed and as ready to go as I can be. I honestly can't fit anymore in my backpack. Packing for 5 months is more frightening than the trip itself! Anyway, time to tell you about my plan.

My journey is separated into two halves. The first, is South East Asia, where my trusty travel companion is a Miss Annabel Hartle. Annabel and I have lived together for 3 years now, so we should make a pretty good travel partnership. I mean, we've seen each other at our worst (and best) so we should be prepared for anything we through at each other! Plus, we're both newbies at this game. We went straight from school to University, and have had relatively little travel experience. It's epic for us both - and I think that is important.

We were both very keen to travel around Asia, namely Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Both of us have been at the receiving end of our gap year friends ranting and raving about the islands, tubing, the Koh San Road and how "amazing" it all was. Of course, we pretended we didn't care that we were missing out. We lied. So it was the natural first stop to make. Party time, relaxing time, just one big, two and half month holiday! After six plus months of constantly working (sometimes with seven day weeks) I think I deserve it.

The second leg of my trip, still seems so far away, but so enormous. It's my beloved South America. Probably number one on my list of places to visit, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru and Brazil are all on my agenda.
After visiting Costa Rica and Nicaragua back in 2009, I had a hunger to get back to Latin America. I fell in love with the latin culture, and just had to get back. Annabel felt like this for New Zealand...and whilst it's up there for me, I had to make a choice. South America won.

So Annabel and I will split up after Asia, to follow our own individual choices.Yet, I shall meet another keen explorer out in Buenos Aires: Miss Tash Ozeren. Tash will be my next crazy companion to assist me on a tougher but thrilling South American adventure. That, is another story for the future...



Back to now. Tonight, we fly to Bangkok. I still don't think that it has sunk in. In 7 hours, I leave home for five whole months! After so much planning, stressing, working, saving, we're finally here at this day and it still hasn't sunk in! It'll hit me at the airport. Butterflies will attack and Bells and I will be jumping around like crazy.

Well that's me done, next stop THAILAND. I've already had to say most goodbyes...and they weren't all happy. I will miss a lot of very special people, who are the only necessities that I haven't tried to fit in my backpack. So rest assured I'll be back...one day. 

Until next time...

S x

A Little Perspective

Hello. Hola. Sawat-Dee.
I am Stephanie. Stephanie Jane Mitchell.
I’m 21 years old and graduated from Cardiff University with a degree in Journalism. I would love to be a writer one day, but I have a fair way to go yet. This is just a start. 

When asked if I have any hobbies, I find it difficult to answer. But if you ask me about my passions? That's easy: art…literature…music…culture. I love culture…but even more than that, I love different cultures. Different people, different places, different atomospheres, different worlds. Without exploring the thousands of vibrant cultures that exist, how are really ever able to gain a true perspective of our own?

Needless to say, I have always loved to travel.  I'm very lucky to have visited some amazing places already: Italy, Greece, Germany, Antigua, New York, Mexico, Nicaragua, to name but a few. Yet I really haven't even begun.


I want to explore a bit more of the wider world before I decide on my future. I don't feel like I'm hiding from anything, or afraid of making life-changing decisions. I simply want the decisions I make to be the right ones. This is why I am going to travel. With any luck, not only will it be the best experience of my life but it will give me that little bit of perspective…